(Figure: the difference between the principle of woven and knitted)
The basic organization is the simplest and most basic organization in all kinds of organizations, and it is the basis for various changes and fancy organizations. The basic organization consists of three types of plain, twill and satin.
Tissue parameters Plain weave is the simplest of all fabric tissues. Its organization is one up and down, and the two alternate into a complete organization.
The warp and weft yarns of the plain weave have the most interlacing points and the yarns have more buckling. Therefore, the fabric surface is flat, the body is firm, the texture is firm, and the appearance is tight, but the hand feels hard and the elasticity is small. In actual use, various methods can be used according to different requirements, such as different thickness of warp and weft yarns, change of warp and weft density, and different combinations and configurations of twist, direction and color. Appearance effect.
Plain weave is widely used in cotton, wool, silk and hemp fabrics, such as flat cloth with smooth cloth surface, fine spinning with fine texture, poplin with clear diamond-shaped particles, and four grosgrain with faint and horizontal stripes. The effect of seersucker and georgette, as well as the hidden effect of varnish, patris, thin tweed, flannel and so on.
The twill weave is characterized in that the warp short floating length or the latitudinal short floating length is arranged in a stepwise manner, and a continuous oblique line is formed on the surface of the fabric. The movement of each warp yarn is the same, but the starting point is different.
The twill weave has a warp, a weft and a double-sided twill. Where the surface of the fabric is dominated by tissue points, such as 2/1 is a twill twill, and vice versa, such as 1/3 of the weft tissue points is a weft twill. The reverse side of the twill is the weft twill, but the opposite direction. The ratio of the two tissue points on the front and the back is the same, but the diagonal direction is opposite, which is called double-sided twill.
The degree of inclination of the diagonal line is also different. The twill weave indicates the oblique angle of the twill by the angle α between the diagonal line and the horizontal line. As α increases, the larger the density is, the steeper the oblique line is. The twill of α>450 is an acute twill, the twill of α<450 is a slow twill, and when α=450, the warp and weft are equal.
The twill weave has less interlacing points than the plain weave, and has a floating length. The fabric is softer and thicker than the plain weave, and the gloss is also good, but the fastness is not as good as that of the plain weave fabric, and the diagonal line on the surface can be clearly defined according to the ratio of the selected twist direction and the warp and weft density. Or the lines are full and prominent, even and straight.
Common twill fabric lines are flat twill, enamel, koi, koala and so on.
Satin weave is the most complex tissue in the basic organization. It is characterized by a single tissue point (via tissue or weft point) on each warp (or weft), on two adjacent yarns. There is a certain distance between the individual tissue points, and is covered by the long floating line or the long floating line on both sides, so that the surface of the fabric is almost entirely composed of a long floating line or a long floating line, so the cloth surface is smooth and even and shiny. Good, soft texture.
Common satin fabric satin tissue applications are widely available. In the cotton and wool fabrics, five satin weaves are used, and the tribute, tributary, and tribute satin are obtained. In the silk fabric, eight satin weaves are used to obtain various lustrous satin and flowers. Satin or satin woven fabric.
The change organization is a variety of derived organizations obtained on the basis of the original organization, such as changing the number of cycles of the yarn, the length of the float, the number of flying, the direction of the diagonal line, and the like. The change organization can be divided into three categories: plain-grained tissue (including flattened tissue, square-level tissue, etc.), twill-changed tissue (including enhanced twill, composite twill, angle twill, mountain twill, diamond twill, reed twill, etc.), satin Change organization (including strengthening satin, changing satin, etc.).
The fabrics with plain weave change, some appearances have a convex stripe effect, which is used to design poplin, hemp yarn, and robe. Some have a flat appearance, soft and elastic texture, and good gloss. They are often used as the side structure of fabrics such as clothing and screens. The appearance of the twill-changed tissue fabric exhibits various twill effects, some show multiple twill lines in parallel, some are yin and yang, and others show herringbone and reed shape. Therefore, it is widely used in various fabric designs such as cotton, wool, silk, and chemical fiber.
Compared with satin weave, the satin-changed tissue fabric is more random and free in design, so it has been widely used, such as in satin, satin fabrics, sleek coats, women's styles, etc. application.
A new organization, a joint organization , in which two or more organizations (original or changing organizations) are combined in different ways. The surface of the joint tissue has special appearance effects. The common ones are as follows: stripe structure, through-hole structure, mesh structure, ridge tissue, honeycomb tissue, and sputum tissue. These tissues are widely used in clothing and decorative fabrics. application.
Complex organization , complex organization means that at least one of the warp and weft yarns is composed of two or more sets of yarns. This structure can increase the thickness of the fabric and make the surface dense, improve the abrasion resistance of the fabric and soften the texture, or obtain some special properties. According to its different organizational structure, it can be divided into two types: double organization, double layer tissue, hair raising tissue, towel tissue, and leno tissue. They are widely used in autumn and winter clothing, decorative fabrics (bed blankets, seat cushions) and industrial fabrics.
Article source: China fiber fashion trends
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