The successor emerges? 85-year-old Lafayette missed Chanel Gaoding for the first time

What the fashion industry needs to think about is whether Chanel is ready to usher in a "post-Lafayette" era.

Chanel 2019 spring and summer high-definition series fashion show was released in Paris Grand Palace as scheduled today. Surprisingly, the 85-year-old brand art director Karl Lagerfeld did not appear for the first time in history, but worked with him for nearly 30 years. The Chanel Creative Studio Director Virginie Viard made a curtain call.

The brand spokesperson then explained that Karl Lagerfeld was absent due to physical fatigue and hoped that he would recover soon. However, Karl Lagerfeld's unusual behavior has intensified speculation that he will retire. Some people in the industry pointed out that although Karl Lagerfeld signed a lifelong contract, if he is in poor health, retirement will be put on the agenda. Recently, he has also accumulated a lot of hustle and bustle. Some people think that this may be some kind of indication.

It is worth noting that Virginie Viard is the successor of Karl Lagerfeld. Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Director of the New York Times, wrote in an article titled "The Fashion World After Anna Wintour" last year that the rumors of Anna Wintour's departure have undoubtedly inspired people's imagination. Without Anna Wintour, the fashion world will become What? She also pointed out that the most stable people in the fashion industry today are probably left with Karl Lagerfeld.

Karl Lagerfeld has been Chanel Creative Director since 1983 and has been a creative director for LVMH's luxury brand Fendi for over 50 years. He said in an interview, "Why should I stop working? I may die if I don't work."

However, despite the signing of a lifetime contract, the fashion industry’s speculation about when Karl Lagerfeld retires has never stopped.

After a violent exchange of creative directors in the past, people often see rumors of common sense being confirmed, so they began to re-examine the "fashion" that has been accepted for granted, and the future of this fashion.

Few people realize that the “fashion” that people are used to today is exactly the concept that brands and designers like Karl Lagerfeld have built over the past 20 years, and fashion does not have to be. Some analysts say that if people have begun to envision the world of Anna Wintour, then the world will also be a post-Karl Lagerfeld world.

Haider Ackermann was once considered the successor of Karl Lagerfeld. As early as 2010, Karl Lagerfeld said in an interview with Numero magazine, “I signed a lifetime contract, so I mainly want to see who I want to pick up. It seems that I will say that Haider Ackermann is suitable.” Subsequently, Karl Lagerfeld's inauguration of Haider Ackermann's news for the creative director is overwhelming. But this statement was denied the following year.

When Karl Lagerfeld was interviewed by W Magazine in the United States, Haider Ackermann could go to Givenchy and denied the idea of ​​let Haider Ackermann join Chanel. "I don't think it is his world."

In 2016, news about Karl Lagerfeld's upcoming retirement was in the industry. The incident originated from the report of the US gossip tabloid Page Six. Some sources said that Karl Lagerfeld is very tired at present, his work performance is not satisfactory, and he is ready to retire. The source also said that the Cuban vacation series may be his last series. The news was clarified when Karl Lagerfeld was interviewed by Harper's BAZAAR magazine. Last year, Chanel's holiday collection in Hamburg, Germany, was once the last series of Karl Lagerfeld.

However, compared to other star creative directors, Virginie Viard grew up internally and is considered the most reliable successor. After a long period of time, the trust between Virginie Viard and the Wertheimer family behind Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld has been established. In addition, Alessandro Michele's success story led by Gucci also proves that it is equally feasible for brands to promote creative directors from within.

The fashion industry is undergoing a structural evolution, and various brand creative directors frequently exchange blood, and new fashion scenes have begun to take shape. What is certain is that no matter who takes over Karl Lagerfeld to take charge of Chanel, he will face an increasingly turbulent luxury industry and Chanel in the middle-aged anxiety.

Although in the head luxury brand, Chanel has a certain capital to be independent, in the past half century, it has been able to sit on the throne of the luxury goods industry. At the same time, Chanel's performance pressure is relatively small compared to listed groups, as the Chanel Group is mainly held by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer. However, in the face of the oligarchy competition between LVMH and Kaiyun Group, Chanel has to think about its position in the industry.

In June last year, after Gucci said that it would target Louis Vuitton's number one luxury throne with a sales of 10 billion euros, Chanel, which has always kept a low profile, announced its first financial report. Its total sales in FY2017 surged 11% year-on-year to 9.62 billion. The US dollar is about 8.3 billion euros, operating profit is 2.69 billion US dollars, and net profit is 1.8 billion US dollars.

Some analysts pointed out that Chanel's move not only made the acquisition rumor not break, but also showed that the brand still has an unshakable position in the luxury goods industry.

As a luxury brand that advocates classics, internal turmoil is not beneficial to the long-term development of the brand. However, for Chanel, led by Karl Lagerfeld, the industry has been brewing for a long time. Fashion headline network once pointed out in the report that under the series of fresh marketing packaging, Karl Lagerfeld's design has not changed much, so the market can not help but worry that many topical actions are actually the illusion of Chanel rejuvenation, brand products and The image has been seriously out of touch with the latest trends.

Some analysts said that whether it is the show to build a simulation rocket, or in the high-definition show to build the Eiffel Tower and artificial beach, the paving show may be due to Chanel's misunderstanding of a new generation of consumers, especially millennials. In the future, consumers' expectations of luxury brands are no longer an unattainable and gorgeous setting, but a cultural and emotional interaction; they are not carefully created moon-moon dreams and Parisian centralism, but are formed with consumers on topics they care about. Resonance; it is not a high-cold image that the brand unilaterally establishes, but a unique personality that consumers themselves participate in; it is not a comparison of extravagance and waste, but a contest of taste and personality; it is not a slogan “subversion innovation” but a more diverse one. Fresh experience.

The current fashion industry is almost everyone's own danger, including fashion media, the brand's patience to the creative director is very limited. Even if talented, such as Haider Ackermann, left Berluti in three seasons, Chinese designer Yin Yiqing parted ways with the French old fashion house Poiret in just two seasons. However, the replacement of the younger generation of designers by the current generation will not happen to Karl Lagerfeld. The long-term relationship with Chanel is a model of creative relationship between the creative director and the brand.

One can even boldly speculate that the lifetime contract signed by Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel may be the last life contract in fashion history. In the past 20 years, the structure of the fashion industry has remained relatively stable, and it seems that it has finally reached a new turning point.

There is no doubt that fashion will become another scene once the traders who build the traditional power system withdraw.

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